Bringing a new dog home is a very exciting time for everyone in the family! First introductions can help set the scene for all other interactions, so it is important you take the time to get it right.

To do this (especially with dog-dog introductions) you will need a second person to assist to help ensure everyone is feeling safe and comfortable at all times.

Behaviour and dog interactions are complex. Please note: the recommendations provided below are only a general guide to consider during introductions and a rough example of steps that can be taken to help ensure successful friendships are formed. We recommend you invest in a qualified force-free trainer to help manage the introductions safely and with a tailored plan specifically for you and your new dog.

Making sure your pup is comfortable at home is very important. Carefully managing their interactions with other pets in the home will also set everyone up for success. Some dogs are social butterflies (but not as many as the Disney channel would have us believe).

Most dogs are very selective about the dogs they want to be friends with (just like us), and many are tolerant of other dogs but might struggle to live with one without their own personal space. Your existing dog might be very happy meeting new dogs on walks, but having a dog come into the home to live with them can be a whole other ball game.

Introducing a new dog to existing dogs in the home can be a complex process. Here are seven tips to help ensure your introductions are a success.

Before you start introductions, make sure you are familiar with the body language exhibited by both cats and dogs, especially signs of fear, distress or discomfort.  Using a baby gate or glass door can help in the initial stages of introducing cats to dogs. While your cat may be used to having another dog in the home, bringing a new dog in can be stressful for them, and your new dog may not be used to cats. It is important to take these introductions very slowly and carefully to ensure both the cat and dog are feeling safe at all times.

For the first introduction, use a room in which your cat is easily able to escape to a safe place if they want to (for example, a room with a familiar and well-used high platform such as a multi-tiered cat scratching post) so the cat can escape from the situation and gain vertical height, as cats often like to be above the scene looking down and can feel safer that way. Having a place the cat can hide up high is even better – a large box on a shelf or desk can do the trick).

You should allow the kitten/cat to choose whether they approach the dog or not. If they hiss or growl things have moved too quickly and return to the last step where the cat felt most comfortable and showed no signs of fear, escape or hiding behaviour. This might be with the glass door between them again, or even a solid door to start with – both cats and dogs can smell very well and will know who is on the other side of the door. If you don’t force the introductions quicker than either animal is feeling comfortable with, neither animal should react negatively by lunging, swiping, growling, biting or snapping. If something does happen, placing an inanimate safe object (like a large cushion) between the dog and the kitten/cat can work in the worst-case scenario. In these situations, best to invest in a qualified force-free trainer to assist in this introduction in the future and allow both dog and cat several days to decompress away from each other before trying again.

Be patient, it will probably take a few weeks of having your dog on the leash with the kitten/cat around before everyone is sufficiently comfortable to try with the dog off-leash. These interactions should still be closely supervised, and very short, but frequent. If there are any signs of fear or stress from either animal at any stage, it is best to remove the other animal from the room. For instance, if a cat swishes their tail or hisses, giving them extra space by moving the dog away from them can help them feel safer. Keep a close eye on both animals and never punish either of them for aggressive behaviour. Punishment will both: 1). Stop the obvious warning signs before a bite (e.g. growling), without addressing the underlying emotion, and will increase the chance a dog or cat ‘bites out of the blue’, and 2). Increases the chances that the animal will associate the other animal with your punishment – it’s counter-productive.

Ensure your dog and cat receive a lot of individual attention from you moving forward. Do not leave your animals alone together until you are absolutely certain that they tolerate each other, the dog chooses to relax on their mat or on the couch instead of chasing the cat, and they are all safe. If you are not sure, continue to supervise directly when you are at home or physically separate them when you are not at home.

It is important that you manage the introduction to your family carefully and that children are directly supervised at all times with the dog or puppy. Introducing a new canine member to the family is a special and exciting time but can be a little overwhelming for all concerned. However, this can be managed with planning, so that everyone feels happy and safe.

One of the key steps is to create an environment that is calm and quiet, allowing interaction by the dog or puppy on their terms by letting them approach the child, which will generally occur relatively easily if children are themselves calm and quiet.

Teaching children to safely interact with a dog by encouraging gentleness and respect will help create a bond of mutual trust.

When it is time for the children to meet your dog, make sure the children sit calmly and quietly, and the dog will usually come to investigate out of natural curiosity. Teach the children to speak softly and slowly and gently pat the dog on the shoulder, and not on the top of their head or tail. Reinforcing the dog for calm behaviour with a food treat (by the supervising adult) helps them learn how to be safe around children and also helps them to associate children with something positive.

For confident, boisterous dogs (and puppies): It may be best to have the dog on a lead so they don’t knock the child over, or to meet through a baby gate or fence first. Confident dogs might be happy to approach and more likely to jump up, so reinforcing them for all paws on the floor as often as possible can be a great way to let them know how to behave.

For shy or nervous dogs who are hesitant to approach: It can be tempting to hold your hand out for the dog to sniff. Dogs have an incredible sense of smell and already know what you smell like before you’ve opened the door! Instead, children can help dogs be comfortable by keeping their hands in their pockets and allowing the dog to come and investigate themselves. If the dog comes closer, that is not an indication they are ready for pats. Reaching out to pat them can be unpredictable and make them more scared for future interactions. Best to allow them to sniff and move away as they need until they are approaching more confidently. Then you can change things up by holding a hand out to see if they want a brief pat on the shoulder.

Then take the focus off the dog by giving the children another activity. This way the dog can get to know the children at a pace they are comfortable with. Both shy and boisterous dogs might love a good sniff around the backyard, or going for a walk where they can get to know new children without being the centre of attention. Setting children up in front of the TV and having the dog settle nearby (on a lead if boisterous) with a food dispensing toy can be a great way to build routines around calm, safe interactions.

It is important children are always supervised by an adult around dogs, regardless of how safe, loving or calm the dog or child is. If left to their own devices, neither children nor dogs tend to make the best choices. Accidents can happen and it is never worth the risk. Allowing the dog to choose when they interact in the short term will make for a much stronger, trusting relationship long term. Make sure that your dog has an area where they can go away from the child if they are getting overwhelmed. Teach the children that when dogs are eating, sleeping, or in a crate the dog should be left alone. Allowing time for the dog to have their mad moments away from the children, and vice-versa is a great way to ensure all interactions moving forward are safe and happy ones

Here are some ideas on how you can help develop a healthy relationship between your pooch and children.

Playing ‘Go Find’ – Children can throw pieces of the dog’s breakfast and dinner on the ground for the dog to find. This is a great, safe interaction for all involved. Some dogs might need to be on a lead or behind a baby gate to stop them from mugging.

Children can learn to throw the treat and then let the dog find it themselves. If the dog is hunting for their treat or eating it, be sure the child knows not to approach.

Making enrichment – children can get creative in making pass the parcels (food inside boxes), snuffle mats, or packing other food dispensing toys to give to dogs for breakfast and dinner.

Attending training classes to help children learn how to interact and train dogs safely.

Pats on shoulders, chest or side (not the head, feet or tail). We often want to show our dogs how much we love them with a hug, but this can be very intimidating for dogs (hugging is very much a human (and primate) behaviour, not a canine behaviour). Children should avoid hugging dogs as this can make the dog feel trapped. Also, dogs may become frightened if chased by children, so this should be avoided.